Know Your Hair Porosity: Match Nourishment with Need
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This blog post was written and submitted by Melanie Webster, a leading expert in all things natural. Mel has a Bachelor of Naturopathy, a Diploma in Clinical Nutrition & a Diploma in Herbal Medicine.
Ever wonder why your friend swears by coconut oil but it just sits on top of your hair
refusing to budge? Or why your hair drinks up leave-in conditioners like a sponge but
still feels dry hours later? The answer might be all about porosity, the way your hair
absorbs and holds moisture.
Understanding your hair’s porosity is like unlocking its love language. It helps you
choose oils, masks, and treatments that actually work with your hair’s unique texture
and needs, rather than fighting against them.
What Is Hair Porosity?
Porosity simply means how easily your hair can soak up and hold onto moisture. It’s
determined by the condition of the outer layer of your hair, called the cuticle. Picture
the cuticle as a roof of tiny overlapping shingles. If those shingles are tightly packed,
moisture finds it hard to get in. If they’re lifted or damaged, moisture rushes in easily
but also escapes just as fast.
There are three main types of porosity: low, normal, and high.
Low Porosity Hair: Tightly Closed Cuticles
Low-porosity hair tends to resist water. You might notice water beads on top of your
strands instead of soaking in, and heavy oils or butters can feel like they’re just sitting
there.
Low-porosity hair benefits from lightweight, water-based products and gentle heat
to help open the cuticle slightly. Look for ingredients like aloe vera, honey, or glycerin
in moderation, as they attract moisture without weighing things down, and oils such as
argan, jojoba, or grapeseed are absorbed more easily.
Pro tip: Apply conditioner or masks on damp (not dripping wet) hair and use a warm
towel or low heat cap to help nutrients penetrate more deeply.
Normal (Medium) Porosity: The Balanced Middle
If your hair feels healthy, shines naturally, and holds styles well, you’re probably in the
normal-porosity range. Moisture moves in and out easily, meaning your hair is
generally content and just needs balance.
You can mix and match ingredients here. Try nourishing oils like sweet almond or
marula for strength, and humectants such as honey or panthenol to keep hydration
levels steady. Regular deep treatments will help maintain that healthy balance.
High Porosity Hair: Open, Thirsty Cuticles
High-porosity hair is often dry, frizzy, or colour-treated. Those lifted cuticles let
moisture flood in fast but escape just as quickly, which means it needs extra help
holding onto hydration.
Rich oils like castor, avocado, or shea butter can help seal in moisture. Layering
products can also make a big difference. Start with a water-based leave-in, then follow
with a heavier oil or cream to lock it all in. Try to avoid overusing humectants in humid
weather, as they can pull in too much moisture from the air and cause frizz.
Finding Your Type
A simple test: drop a clean strand of hair into a glass of water.
- If it floats for a while, it’s likely low porosity.
- If it sinks slowly, normal.
- If it drops straight to the bottom, high porosity.
Once you know your porosity, you can stop the guesswork and start working with your
hair. Healthy, happy hair isn’t about following every trend. It’s about understanding
what your unique strands need to thrive and be lustrous.